Underfloor Heating FAQs

The installation time for underfloor heating depends on the system type and project size. An electric underfloor heating mat can often be installed in a single day for one room, while a full water underfloor heating system in a whole house may take several days. Proper preparation, including subfloor insulation, helps speed up the process and ensures long-term efficiency.

The best underfloor heating system depends on your project. Electric underfloor heating is perfect for single rooms, bathrooms, and retrofits. Water (wet) underfloor heating is best for larger areas, new builds, and whole-house systems due to its long-term efficiency and compatibility with renewable heating sources.

Underfloor heating is often cheaper to run than traditional radiators because it works at lower water temperatures while delivering consistent comfort. Costs depend on insulation, room size, and energy tariffs. On average, electric systems may cost more to run than water-based systems, but both can deliver long-term savings when combined with smart thermostats and proper insulation.

The cheapest way to run underfloor heating is by combining good insulation with smart controls. Insulation boards prevent heat loss, while thermostats allow you to program heating only when you need it. For large spaces, water underfloor heating systems paired with efficient boilers or renewable energy sources (like heat pumps) are the most cost-effective option.

Electric underfloor heating is the best choice for small rooms, bathrooms, or retrofits where installation needs to be quick and simple. Water underfloor heating systems are ideal for large areas, new builds, and energy-efficient homes as they work well with renewable heating solutions and provide lower long-term running costs.

Yes, underfloor heating can be installed under laminate, engineered wood, tiles, vinyl, and even some carpets. Always check the flooring manufacturer’s guidelines for compatibility and maximum heat levels. Laminate and engineered flooring are particularly popular choices as they allow efficient heat transfer.

Yes, insulation boards are highly recommended for all underfloor heating installations. They reduce heat loss into the subfloor, improve efficiency, and significantly cut down on warm-up times. Without insulation, running costs can increase, and system performance may be reduced.

It’s not always necessary to turn underfloor heating off at night. Because underfloor systems run at low, steady temperatures, it’s often more efficient to reduce the thermostat setting overnight rather than turning the system off completely. This prevents long warm-up times in the morning and helps keep energy use consistent.

Yes, most homeowners turn their underfloor heating off during the summer months when it’s not needed. Modern thermostats make it easy to power down and restart the system in autumn, keeping running costs low while maintaining comfort year-round.

Yes, underfloor heating can be used with solid wood floors, but it’s important to choose the right type of wood and follow manufacturer guidelines. Engineered wood is usually more stable and recommended, as solid wood can expand and contract with changes in heat and humidity. Always check the wood’s maximum surface temperature rating (usually 27°C) and ensure professional installation for the best results.

Underfloor heating has very few drawbacks when installed correctly. The main considerations are the slightly higher upfront installation cost compared to radiators and the fact that it can take longer to heat up because it works gently and evenly. However, with proper insulation and modern controls, these factors are minimal, and most homeowners find the comfort and efficiency benefits far outweigh them.

Our underfloor heating systems are built for long-term performance. With correct installation and care, they can last for decades. Every system comes with a product guarantee (length varies by product type), giving homeowners peace of mind and lasting comfort.

Underfloor heating is designed to heat the room evenly, not necessarily to make the floor feel hot. If your floor isn’t always warm, the system may still be maintaining a comfortable air temperature. Common reasons for heat loss include poor insulation, incorrect thermostat settings, or blocked heating zones.

Yes, underfloor heating can fully replace radiators in most homes. It provides an even heat distribution, frees up wall space for furniture and design, and often reduces energy bills. Many homeowners are now switching to underfloor heating as a modern, efficient alternative to radiators.

Yes — while you can lay the heating mats or cables yourself, all electrical connections must be completed by a qualified electrician to ensure the system is safe and complies with regulations.

Yes, small systems can often be connected via a 13A fused spur. Larger systems may need their own circuit, so always follow your electrician’s advice.

No — heating mats should never be plugged into a standard socket. They must be hard-wired to your electrical supply for safety and compliance.

Most floors are comfortably heated at around 26–29°C. Wood and vinyl floors often have a lower maximum temperature (usually 27°C), so always check the floor manufacturer’s recommendations.

Yes — as long as the carpet and underlay are compatible with underfloor heating and have a combined tog rating of less than 2.5.

Yes, small repairs can usually be made using an approved repair kit. If the damage is significant, the section may need replacing. Always consult a qualified installer.

In most cases, yes. A dedicated supply ensures your heating runs safely and avoids overloading existing circuits.

Yes, but for best performance and efficiency, insulation boards should be installed first. This reduces heat loss and speeds up warm-up times.

No — each thermostat controls a single zone. If you want different rooms or areas at different temperatures, each should have its own thermostat.

Measure the free floor space (excluding fixed units such as cabinets). Our team can help you calculate the correct mat or cable size for perfect coverage.

Yes — multiple mats or cables can be connected in parallel, as long as the total load does not exceed the thermostat’s rating.

No — heating cables must never be cut, as this will damage the system. Instead, any extra cable should be carefully spaced out within the floor area.

Yes — most laminate and engineered wood floors are compatible with UFH. Always check the flooring manufacturer’s maximum heat tolerance (usually 27°C) before installation.

Flooring up to 18mm thick is generally suitable. Thicker boards can restrict heat transfer, so thinner engineered options are preferred for maximum efficiency.

A low-tog, UFH-approved underlay should be used. These underlays allow efficient heat transfer while protecting the heating system.

Insulation boards are recommended — typically 6mm to 10mm for retrofit, or thicker boards for new builds. They minimise heat loss and improve system efficiency.

Including insulation and heating mats, the total floor build-up is usually between 10mm and 20mm, depending on the insulation thickness selected.

Underwood heating mats typically operate at around 140W/m², providing effective, even heating beneath laminate and engineered wood.

Yes, but additional protection may be required. Always check product suitability and ensure installation complies with electrical safety standards.

Yes — larger areas can be covered, but they may require more than one thermostat or multiple circuits. Our team can provide a tailored layout and wiring plan.

Both mats are connected in parallel to the thermostat. This ensures safe operation and even heating across the full area.

Always ensure the foil earth covering is overlapped and reconnected when mats are cut and turned. Our installation guide provides clear steps to maintain safe earthing continuity.

Avoid placing heavy, non-movable items (like wardrobes or kitchen islands) directly over the heated area. Freestanding and lighter furniture is fine, but heating should ideally cover the free floor space.

With sticky mat systems, floor surface temperatures of up to 29°C can be achieved, which is more than enough to keep your room warm and comfortable. Wood and vinyl coverings may require lower maximums — always check your floor manufacturer’s guidelines.

Sticky mat systems are designed to be ultra-low profile, typically raising the floor height by only 3–5mm once adhesive or levelling compound is applied.

Yes — provided the system is sized correctly for the room and combined with proper insulation. Sticky mat systems deliver even heat distribution, ensuring no cold spots.

Heating mats come pre-spaced on a mesh, making them quicker and easier to install in regular-shaped rooms. Loose heating cables are more flexible for awkward areas or unusual layouts. Both deliver the same efficient results.

Mats are generally supplied in a fixed width of 0.5m, making them easy to roll out and cut to fit around obstacles.

Multiple mats or cables can be connected, provided the total load does not exceed the thermostat’s maximum rating. For larger areas, more than one thermostat may be required.

This depends on the total free floor area you want to heat (excluding fixed units). Our team can help calculate the correct kit size and provide a tailored layout plan.

Water underfloor heating (often called a wet system) uses a series of pipes fitted beneath the floor. Warm water is circulated through these pipes from your boiler or heat pump, gently heating the floor surface which then radiates heat evenly throughout the room.

Most modern boilers, including combi, system, and heat-only boilers, can run water underfloor heating. Heat pumps also work perfectly. The key is ensuring the system is designed with the right flow temperature and controls for efficiency.

No — in fact, water underfloor heating is typically cheaper long-term. Because it works at lower temperatures, it’s more efficient when paired with a modern boiler or heat pump.

Not always. If you use a combi boiler, no hot water tank is needed. For system or heat-only boilers, a tank may already be part of your setup.

Yes — a qualified plumber or heating engineer should handle the connection to your boiler and manifold. However, many customers complete the floor preparation and pipe laying themselves, leaving the final hookup to the professional.

Absolutely. This is a common setup. Your home can be zoned so the underfloor heating runs downstairs while radiators remain upstairs, all controlled from one system.

Yes — zoning ensures each room or area can be controlled individually. This improves comfort and efficiency, as you only heat the spaces you use.

They can be installed in screed, between joists, or using overlay panels. This makes them suitable for new builds, extensions, and retrofits.

Our overlay water systems start from as little as 18mm depth, making them ideal for retrofit projects where floor height is limited.

Manifolds are usually mounted horizontally for best performance, but if space is tight, our team can advise on alternative installation options.

Yes, but you’ll need to ensure correct pump pressure and flow rates. It’s possible but should be planned with your installer to avoid circulation issues.

A motorised valve is recommended for most multi-zone systems, as it improves efficiency and ensures the system only heats when required.

Definitely. Many customers choose to fit underfloor heating in new extensions while leaving the rest of the property on its existing system.

Yes — overlay panels can be fitted over existing tiles, provided the surface is sound and level. This avoids the need to rip up your old floor.

Yes, a self-levelling compound can be applied over DUO panels before tiling, creating a smooth and durable surface.

Yes — engineered or laminate wood is ideal. Solid wood can also be used, but it’s more prone to expansion, so always check the flooring manufacturer’s guidance.

Pipe quantities depend on room size and layout. Our design team can provide a tailored pipe layout plan and calculate the exact amount required.

Each circuit’s flow rate is calculated during system design. Once installed, you simply adjust the flow meters on the manifold to match the recommended rates provided in your design pack.

Yes — UFH systems can often be integrated with HIVE, NEST, and other smart thermostats. This gives you the convenience of app-based control and smart scheduling. Always check compatibility before installation.

No problem. Digital copies of UFH thermostat manuals are available online. Simply visit our support section or contact us, and we’ll provide you with the correct guide.

This depends on your flooring. For tiled or stone floors, Floor mode ensures the surface never overheats. For general room comfort, Air mode monitors the room temperature. Many thermostats allow a combination of both for precise control.

Yes — all UFH thermostats are supplied with a floor sensor probe, which helps regulate surface temperature and protects your flooring.

You can adjust the temperature directly on the thermostat screen or via the mobile app. The app also allows you to set schedules, monitor energy use, and control your heating remotely.

On the Neostat-e, simply press the mode button until “Manual” is displayed. This allows you to set and hold a fixed temperature without following a schedule.

A standard 35mm deep single-gang electrical back box is usually required. This provides enough space for safe wiring behind the thermostat.

Levelling compound is applied to create a smooth, flat surface before laying tiles, vinyl, or other floor coverings. It helps to even out small imperfections and provides the ideal base for adhesives.

Yes — priming is highly recommended. It seals the surface, improves adhesion, and prevents the substrate from absorbing moisture too quickly.

Coverage depends on the depth applied, but as a guide, a 20kg bag will usually cover around 4–5m² at 3mm thickness.

This depends on your floor area and how uneven the surface is. Measure the space and average depth required — most manufacturers provide a coverage chart to help calculate the amount.

Yes — especially with underfloor heating. Flexible adhesives and levelling compounds can handle the natural expansion and contraction caused by temperature changes, preventing cracks.

This depends on the tile size and trowel notch depth. As a rough guide, 20kg of adhesive will usually cover 4–5m², but always check the product specification.

Yes — a notched trowel ensures the adhesive is spread evenly and at the correct depth, giving maximum coverage and a strong bond over heating mats or cables.

Drying times vary by product and depth applied, but most compounds are walkable within 3–4 hours and ready for floor coverings in 24 hours. Always check manufacturer guidelines.

This is the time you have to apply and adjust tiles once the adhesive has been spread. It typically ranges from 20 to 40 minutes, depending on the product and room conditions.